The art of make-up

Her Master Plan recently hosted a mass make-up lesson for 25 women! It was the most fun we have had on a Thursday evening in a long time. The response was incredible and everyone who attended has reached out to say how much they enjoyed the evening, and have benefited from the lesson.

We decided it would be unfair to keep such great make-up advice to ourself, so now here it is for you!…..

Make-up has the power to dramatically change the way we look. If executed correctly the impact can be breathtaking, if done incorrectly it can be disastrous.

The goddess of make-up, Jane Iredale herself said: ‘true makeup artistry comes not from trying to make a face conform to the latest fashion trends, but from enhancing the wearer’s natural beauty’.

This is something we at HMP wholeheartedly agree with and it is a quote that returns to us every time we carry out a make-up application for a client. When we apply make-up to someone we want not only to make her look and feel beautiful, we also want to teach her how she can continue to do that for herself.

Skin, face shape and colouring are unique for everyone and getting it right means finding what works for you as an individual. Trying to follow a fleeting make-up trend can often see you looking more clown than class.

Of course, there are a few golden make-up rules that work for everyone and I will be sharing these today.

The products you choose to use on your skin are important. Your face is the most important outfit you will ever wear and you need to look after it!

Most women wear make-up daily; it is therefore essential the make-up you choose is caring for the skin you are wearing it on.

At Her Master Plan, we choose an all-natural mineral based make-up, Jane Iredale. The products protect, allow the skin to breath and are great for sensitive skin and allergies.

How to apply the perfect face for you:

Great make-up starts with great skin. Always prepare the skin for make-up application by cleansing, toning, lightly moisturising and blotting the skin.

Eyes: Apply eye make-up first! This allows for any stray shadow to be easily removed from underneath the eye without ruining make-up that has been applied to the rest of the face.

Start by covering the lids with your chosen primer, we recommend the Smooth affair facial primer and brightener which can be used as the primer for the entire face. Follow this with a small amount of foundation; this creates a good canvas to build from.

Whatever the look you are aiming for, start with a neutral shade to cover the lid and then further build with your colour choices.

As a rule, use lighter shades for the inner section of the lid (toward the nose), progressing to mid tones on the mid lid, darker shades on the outer lid and darker still toward and along the lash line.

Use this light – dark progression rule regardless of your colour choices. The result can be subtle with natural tones, dramatic and striking with bright, daring shades and will create the perfect smokey eye with darker shades. Apply this rule for the lid, the upper and lower lash line.

To define the eyes and add more dimension to a look, add eyeliner. Keep the liner close to the lash line, and apply along the entire lash line for a bold look (essential for a smokey eye) or stick to the outer lash line to create a more natural look. There is a huge choice of liners out there, find what works for you. We like to use a gel liner. Using a small brush for this gives great control for precise application on both the upper and lower lash lines. Depending on the desired outcome, blend the liner line with a smudge brush or cotton bud. This will blur harsh, heavy lines and is often the key to a smokey eye – play with it.

To finish the shadow, add a highlighting shade to the inner corner of the eye (toward the nose) and just below the eyebrow. This will open up the eyes. Take this one step further by applying white eyeliner (we recommend a pencil liner for best results) to the inner, lower lid.

If applying false eyelashes, this is the time! We recommend using individual lashes over strip lashes. These can be applied to compliment any look and can be great for both natural and dramatic results – you are in control. Individual lashes usually come in 3 sizes – short, medium and long. Most store purchased lashes will include a mixture of all 3. Apply the same rule with lashes as with shadow: lighter – heavier, shorter – longer. We recommend starting on the outer corner of the eye and working in. Be sparing with glue, you don’t need as much as you think and it can get messy! Use a pair of tweezers to remove the lashes one at a time applying as close to the natural lash line as possible, as you go. With practice this becomes easier.

Base: Now is the time to apply a base. We recommend applying base and blush before finalising the eyes with mascara and brows. This will allow lashes to set and will ensure mascara and brow colour isn’t ruined with foundation or blush when they’re applied.

As with the eyes, always use a primer on the skin before applying anything more. This will set the make-up in place and give it a smoother appearance on the skin.

Following primer, apply concealer to any blemishes, imperfections or concerns. Concealers can be found in corrective shades and these work magic!

Green: conceals and corrects any redness, is great for rosacea, pesky blemishes and pimples.

Lilac: great on sallow skins, brightens.

Yellow: will cover any dark circles, bruising or veins.

Neutral: for no major concerns, neutral is the best choice.

The base chosen is an individual choice for everyone. We like to use a BB cream or a tinted moisturizer for a natural, daily option and a mineral liquid foundation for special events, evenings and times when we need a little more coverage. If using a BB cream or tinted moisturizer, this is best applied with fingertips. For a mineral liquid foundation, a foundation brush is best.

An option for shiny, oily skins and photographs is to use a loose, translucent powder with a large brush to set the base. For dryer skins or to maintain a dewy appearance, skip this step.

When it comes to blush, we apply a warm tone over the entire cheek area to the hairline. Use this same tone to shade wider areas of the face i.e. the outer of the forehead, the jawline, and underneath the cheekbones. This can be left as is for a natural look or can be intensified by highlighting the cheekbones with a stronger shade. To apply stronger shades, smile and work with a medium size brush on to the apple of the cheek.

 

Lashes and brows: Return to the eyes to apply mascara and brow colour. With the chosen mascara shade, start with the lower lashes. This will avoid wet upper lashes ruining eye shadow when looking up to complete lower lashes. Apply several coats of mascara for a smokey eye or striking finish, and less for a natural look.

It is true that brows frame a face. There are several options out there to shape, and add definition and colour to brows. Find what works for you and do it right.

To know the ideal brow shape for you: find where your brows should begin by holding a thin make-up brush (a lip line brush is ideal) to sit along the outer corner of the nose in a straight line up to the brow line. Where this brush sits at the brow line is the ideal beginning for the brow. Hold the same brush in a diagonal from the same place across to the outer corner of the eye, where this brush then meets the brow line is where the brow should end. If brows are longer than this, schedule in a shape with a professional. If they fall short, use a pencil, powder or gel in a shade that matches your natural colour to lightly fill in the gaps. To go darker than your natural brows play with finding a shade that works for you, we highly recommend an eyebrow tint as the best option.

Lips: Again, always apply a base to the lips. It is easiest to do this by covering the lips when applying the base. Use the chosen lipstick with a fine, thin brush as a lip liner; this avoids a heavy lip line. Then fill in with the shade. For a very natural appearance, apply a light or clear gloss. For a bolder, dramatic feel, apply a couple of coats of colour and a clear gloss; blot the lips with tissue between these stages if needed.

Always remember it is easier to add than to take away!

Final tips and take aways:

  • For a very natural / dewy finish keep all of your products cream based.
  • If you go heavy on the eyes, go light on the cheeks and lips and visa versa.
  • Use your blush / bronze to double up as a mid tone eye shadow and mix with a small amount of lip bam to create a lip colour.

If you have any questions about this blog or would like further recommendations, please feel free to contact us. And follow us for updates, further advice and offers.

Don’t forget to #HerMasterPlan in your make-up photos to be in with the chance of winning a one-one make-up lesson with us!

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